Monday, July 15, 2013

Day 15: Departing Japan, The Opposites

I called Babcias house today before leaving the hotel, its Sunday Dinner and i knew Shed get a kick out of our call from Japan. Then my cousin got on the line. "So what's it like over there?" Wow! Where to begin?? What's it like in the U.S.? It's a hard question to address simply. And one of the easiest ways to think about Japan is in opposites.

Many americans, actually not having traveled to Japan also assume certain things. We see Japanese movies, advertising, movies and those tourist busses all taking pictures galore! Technology, smart phones galore, cool styles, trendy women, and awesome traditions. That's my Japan image that I arrived here with. But its also not so so so so so Japanese either. 

It's not often in life that you can have an experience that makes you look at "the opposite." Often times we think about "our morning coffee" for example. It's just that, coffee. Brown, strength to suit your liking, the smell, the taste, it's temperature when it hits you mouth. It's so Familiar.

And what if someone messes with that coffee, your coffee? The one your so used too. the one you don't even have to think about how to brew it or make it everyday. You immediately can see the difference, it's too watery, or too bitter and over brewed, the milk isn't creamy enough, there's a sweetness that isn't quite right. And why is it so freaking hot??

Traveling to Japan from the U.S. can be equated to the coffee exchange. While Japan is indeed very Japanese, they have tried to adapt many western "things," like drinking coffee, or western clothes. 

The Japanese almost all wear western clothes, even the older generations. Traditional Japanese clothes is alive and well In Kyoto (mostly) we frequently saw women, and girls who are friends traveling together, wearing full on traditional kimonos or Furuguki. Young men also wear these as comfortable relaxed traditional fashions. But when the Japanese wear western clothes, to the US Eye somethings so different and it takes a little bit to put your finger on it. In Tokyo theres definitely a sense of hip and trendy fashion. Everyone's in Fedoras and dark sunglasses. And the ladies in their sun brim hats. Even the guys are so so so so stylin. There's many cool tshirts and jeans and cool shoes. And women in summer fun dresses and blouses and skirts. And there colorful necklace, which might have a neat shape or pattern, but the colors may not "match." But wait, it's nearly everyone, and I mean everyone, following one of two fashions. Either the trend of the "Mad Men Esque" white button down and black dress pants. Most women DON'T paint their nails, DON'T wear rings, or bracelets. It's these little "missing" pieces that make it not so so so so so western.

Then there's that coffee. In Hiroshima's Hotel Gran Via breakfast buffet written in English was Coffee (and in Japanese Kanji "coffee") then there was a button for Weak Coffee (but here the Kanji was "American Coffee"). The actual difference (thru my eyes) was the first coffee was Expresso and the Second was regular drip. And here they both tasted good. But when you took the brewed coffee in the coffee pot, it's super bitter. And in Shin-Yokohama that's what they call the coffee, "bitter coffee" is what we are perceived to like.

I hate to tell you we U.S. Americans are so so so so so rude!! In Japan the norm is polite waiting in line even if you have to hurry up and wait in line (- quote by Katy).  Breakfast buffet has a line. Oh, you want a crossaint at the end of the line? There's no cutting in and just grabbing, you have to wait until the line passes said crossaint! 

When finished paying a convenient store cashier, Don't step to the side near another register to put your money away either, because suddenly there's a line formed behind you and they will be pissed at you!!! Granted in the US a line can form behind you but after a few seconds people may look around asking why is the wait so long?

Language barrier. Everyone, old and especially young will want to talk to you. "Herro," and they'll politely wait for you to reply. Sometimes you get a "How are you today?" They love when Americans say "it's hot today." Japanese will reply "Oh yes very hot!" With huge smiles. We agree its hot, and they think we've never experienced such heat and humidity.

When it's time to part ways they love to say "see you!" That's the goodbye. It's cute, super cute from kids. But wait, why does EVERYONE say the exact conversation? More likely then not this is the exchange you will here. Add a few "yes" to any question you ask, and that an "opposite" conversation. 

The girls are cute. The women are cute. The skirts are short, all short. Women dress very feminine. Very nice. I didn't see ANY strapless halter shirts or dresses in 13 days until Tokyo! I didn't see any sleeveless shirts or tank tops either. And in Tokyo is was under a dozen women. Conservative fashion is alive and well in Japan. However, sometimes the Feminine borders on childish clothes (maybe more juniors section). So there's and awkward element when you see an adult women, in a "Juniors Section" outfit, with a BIG Louis Vetton or Coach purse. 

Convenient stores and drink vending machines are everywhere! Every in the most rural area. It's actually a good way for the Japanese to get these quickly accessible items. However, where's the "grocery store," the fruit market, to offset what convenient stores can't provide? It's a missing element to a balanced shipping experience. 

The lack of crime. Ok, crime happens. Even in Japan. But on this trip, the 5 of us had no theft, no attempted theft, no misunderstandings of the criminal sort. There's no pick pockets, NADA along these lines. However, do your own research because of course there are areas to be concerned with. But for the most part, as I overheard one American Japanese women say to her husband, "I still can't get used to carrying ALL of our money around." 

Cash cash cash, is so so so so so important. I didn't see a credit card used until we were in Tokyo. I Osaka husband tried to pay for his cuff links at Daimura with his MasterCard and the was a whole apology drama. They'd take VISA only. Our companion needed an ATM that accepts her bank debt card, not 7-11 and the new policy in Japan. Exchange cash - all of it at your airport stops. Narita had the VERY best rate in all of Japan!! 

We teased that all of the food is a Japanese fusion. While all the pasta and noodles are perfectly al dente (EVERY SUNGLE TIME in every city!!) the flavored of dishes aren't always spot on. Al dente is easily explained because Japan is a By The Book culture. If the boat leaves at 4:25, it's pulling away at 4:24. If pasta takes 8 minutes in boiling water, be sure the chef is standing next to the pot for those 8 minutes!!  

And finally the Japanese business card exchange. Japanese DON'T expect you to "Hajememehmashite" introductions. They assume you don't know Yoroshiko Goisaymasu. So in this small island, the size of California, you may be a rare opportunity for them to see a foreigner. Especially one whos learned some Japanese phrases. In the Japanese school system that we experienced only 1/3 of then Jr High schoolers proceed to High School. (This is not the official 98% statistic.) When they learn some English and a few phrases, that's it for international languages and cultures - it stops there. We speak 3 languages at home and I can now express exstensive greetings in Japanese. But also basics in French, Italian, German  and of course Polish and Spanish. But the Japanese live and stay on an island, with limited exposure or education for over 2/3rds of the country, so international language and awareness of other cultures is low. Expect that if you can express 1 or 2 Japanese  words people will ask if you "speak Japanese?" And if you use Hashee there will surely be shock and admiration. Having a several Chinese restaurants in most Chicago neighborhoods helps, as does frequenting Japanese ones too. But it's accessible to us, not vice versa. 

"Do you speak Japanese?" The reply to your attempts is two-fold. One, as mentioned above, few foreigners come here who actually learn to converse. So knowing a few phrases is a big deal. Also there's saving face. You know some Japanese but maybe they have limited English. So it's a subtle way of saying your few words don't make you fluent. It's a subtle way to highlight the other person DOES speak the language, so the can credit themselves with this. 

Fruits!!! Fruits are so expensive in Japan. There's limited room to grow anything, and the government directive is to grow rice. When you do see bananas at the convenient store there ¥98 or $1US - per banana!!! I did see a 4 pack for ¥390 ar the producent store. In Shinagawa station Tokyo there asre cantelopes for ¥2,500 that nearly $25 US for one cantelope. Japanese cuisine is Fish, Seaweed, some vegetables, rice and noodles. Sushi is a delicacy here in the US but easily accessible. Fruits however are not accessible there.

Produce Store in Shinagawa Tokyo Shopping mall near the Hotel and Aquarium

Japan Airlines meals on the flight.


I have not captured the essence of the culture, just some elements that stand out and highlights of the different nuisances. This by all means isn't "Japan," but neither is just a visit
to Tokyo. I understand more, I can relate more, and I'll miss this tremendous experience. 

No comments:

Post a Comment